Movers are brilliant with sofas and hopeless with trees. A sofa has a shape they have handled a thousand times; a two-and-a-half metre olive tree in a heavy planter has no obvious place to grip, no flat side, and a canopy that fits through a doorway only if somebody thinks about it first. Left to the day itself, the tree travels badly — laid flat in the van, foliage under whatever gets stacked on top, lifted by the one part that should never carry its weight.
None of that is difficult to avoid. It just has to be decided before the van arrives rather than in the stairwell.
Know what you are actually lifting
A well-made artificial tree is not a single moulded object. It is a preserved natural trunk, a frame of branches fixed into that trunk, foliage attached branch by branch, and a base set into a planter — usually weighted, sometimes cemented, so the whole thing stands without rocking. Each of those joints has a job, and each has a limit.
The important consequence: the trunk is not a handle. Pulling or dragging a tree by its trunk puts leverage straight onto the point where the trunk meets the base — the one connection carrying the entire weight of the canopy. It will usually survive it. It does not need to be asked to. The load should always be taken from the planter or the base, never from the trunk and certainly never from a branch.
The second consequence: foliage is the most fragile part and the easiest to protect. Leaves crush and take a set if something rests on them for two days — damage that is cosmetic and almost entirely reversible, but only if you know it is coming.
Before moving day
Photograph it. Two or three shots from different angles, in good light. This is the step people skip and regret. A large canopy is shaped deliberately — branches turned out, weight to one side, gaps left on purpose. After a move the foliage needs reopening, and the photograph is how you know what you are reopening it to.
Measure the route, not the tree. What matters is the narrowest point between the tree and the van: a doorway, a lift car, a turn on a landing, a low garage ceiling. If the canopy is wider than that, the branches come in before the tree moves — not while it is wedged in a doorway with two people holding it.
Tie the canopy in. Gather the outer branches gently upward and inward and hold them with soft ties — fabric strips, wide cable ties with the tension left loose, cling film wrapped around the gathered canopy. The aim is a narrower, protected bundle, not a tight one. Do not compress it hard; crushed foliage is exactly what you are trying to prevent.
Check the planter. A weighted base is good news standing still and awkward in a stairwell: a large planter with ballast in it is heavier than it looks, and often heavier on one side. If the ballast is loose material rather than set, remove it for the journey and put it back afterwards. Lift from underneath, with a second person — never by the rim, where fibreglass is thinnest and concrete chips.
In the van
Upright is better than flat, every time. Standing in a corner with the planter braced against the sides and the canopy clear of other cargo is the position the tree is built for. Blankets or boxes packed around the planter stop it sliding; nothing leans on the canopy.
If the van is too low — the usual reason for laying one down — lay it on its side with the planter supported, blankets under the trunk, and a clear exclusion zone around the foliage. The canopy takes no load at all. That is a safe way to travel a tree. Burying it under boxes is not.
Avoid leaving the tree in a closed van in full sun. Outdoor pieces are built with anti-UV foliage for Lebanese summers, but nothing benefits from an afternoon in a parked metal box.
Setting it up again
Place the planter first and get it level before you touch the canopy — on tile, a slight slope shows immediately in a tall tree. Then cut the ties and work inside out: inner branches first, then the outer ones, turning each to where your photograph says it belongs. Foliage folded for a day or two looks wrong for a few minutes and stops looking wrong once the leaves are turned the right way up.
Anything still flat after that needs the individual leaves separated by hand. If a branch has come loose at the trunk, or the trunk moves in the base, send a photograph rather than forcing it back — that is a workshop repair, and a short one.
FAQ
Can a large artificial tree be dismantled for a move?
Sometimes. Some pieces have removable branch sections or a tree that lifts out of its planter; others are assembled as one piece because the design needed it. Send a photograph — we can usually tell from the build how it comes apart, if it does.
Will the tree look the same afterwards?
If the foliage was protected in transit and reopened properly, yes. Flattened leaves recover; what does not recover is a canopy that carried weight for the whole journey.
Can you move it for us?
Yes. We deliver and install nationwide, and relocating a piece — ours or not — is the same work in reverse. For tall or awkward trees it is often cheaper than the repair afterwards.
What if the new space is a different height?
Then the tree can be re-proportioned rather than replaced. Because everything is made in our own workshop in Jdeideh, a canopy can be reduced, reshaped or extended, and a tree can be rebased into a planter that suits the new room.
If you would rather not do it yourself
Moving one tree is a careful afternoon. Moving six, or one three metres tall, is a job for people who have done it before. Send a photograph of the piece and the new space on WhatsApp or through our contact page, and we will tell you honestly whether it is a move, a repair, or a good moment to reshape the tree for its new room. The showroom in Jdeideh, facing St. John Greek Orthodox church, is open if you would rather talk it through in front of the real thing.























































